Garment



s. F. STEIN GARMENT Filed Jan. 21, 195o Jam.4 13, 1931.

ln/ventola 77 76 55511: atxaxzgw In un um' l Patented Jan. 13,*71931`fAppinset-ibn eleafJ-enuary 21., reise. Seriali neglia'aaa."

My inventionreiates'- te garments suchias l Waist `sitze :of pants: or':knickerbockers Itoftit trousers and .knickerbockers that-at the waistare :providedxlwitifi 'elastic Webbingf My obnject in making y.the Waistzen-eirclingnri*portion of. trousers' andlknickerboekers'of elastieweb.-hing.,` in whole or ,in para :is A'totA enjable one any one ofseyerai-dierentsize WaistmeinsT ureifnents efadifierentpersons-',and'with al1 those Waist sizes. .to `grip L'theji body of the'i wearer 1 tol support '1t-heu garment fatthe waist y of the Wearer..The difiiiculty. .fitting lthe garment is principally.- inthe Waist: nieasurefV ,f

nient. 4Iithe Waist ineasurementof thergari inentfbe too large 'it makesa Very unsightly "ap pearance' and cannot be supported proper@ 'y` "1yand if' too small, of1fcours`e,tit ca nno't'be Wornat ail.` Then theWaist iselastie, as by i invention; all Vthe'difficL'ilat'ies` about.the

Waist *ineasureinents:l arey e1i1ninated.. There .iene-necessity tovriptheffback seam ofthegarin'entto makealterations.kv Indeedsometimes theWaist cannot be made zlar'ger for Want of suiiicientfcloth at the backseam; r g

. 'To enable the .Waistpo-rtionof trousers .Whenfniade Withxeiasticwebbing) to talige-care .of `several yWaist measurements, it istneces-:garment .adjacent :the ioweipait ofthe waist .portion is of.non`stretchab'le;l material, and. so must ibesuflicien-tly largexi'n.-cireuinferencel toY utilizelthle largest size, ;to: which theelastic.. will allowtheiwaistfportion vto be:-eX-panded.

Y Thus, ythe vconflicting'requirements of theg' niininiuincircumference; of thee1astic.con taining'waist `portion yto suit` thesmallest.

. Waist size. and `inaxin'iur'nenlargennentofthe y non-stretchable partadjacenttheflower edge? of the elastic-.Webbingjtosuitthe'largest Waistsize,`v ycreate the problemsof adjustments fto L one another in-k a WaythatV iwi-ii lbe freefroni manufacturing disadyanta'gesiad'disadvanfai'tages of looks andappearance ofthe Vfinished .pa-rt. the YWaistvportion 'ofthe garment, when sewed or stitched at/lits bottomfed'geto'theig garment;producespuckers or ,folds orcreases-- -Y so..

These Sprl-chers yare' objectionable Jfori'fa .'nemr y fsight1y. When.the-igarinentif rnistoekfthe v .f

presence of .puckers providesipjociiets which ,dust zaecufmulates;Again,V 4the ipresence-iof 'y fpuciiers orf fdlzdfs isfad'isadvantagein'c L the garment.. It :requires stretching' .to elm-mr. i natethe'puckersor? \-.o'1ds,sothat fabric .er Cioni ,wai ,be egim smooth .de n aie. .ai

f pressir'igoperation..l v theueiect Y steam used Vin' `the" pressingentering t1 4ber'threadfoizering;.whenthe eiasti y 'bing Containsthreads 'anjdfstrands oi'ubber,

is injurious .or rrharrnful to ytherubber,v when@ G5 i' i stretchedlftoreinofegthe 'oldsi ,'.By in.A vention; the: formationI or lexisten'ee ofpuek# ment of velastic webbing at'.the`lwairst.;r1portiion of "thegarment is ,-avoided,ar1`d at ith'e Vsmue time all the advantages'of-'fanrel'asticl'Waist j construction arefsemired,` and they are.secured in a. betteran-d more efficient Way Y;.:air1iil.'ifnfee'rltain-embodiments'ofmy -..-invention` 'advantages and benefitsaresecuredwhichi dolnotf ,f .comeflfronffthejordinary construetioirif L-And niyinventieri: "saves time fin. thesesewin'giv oper# `proceeds.y ix ,"It` .is indispensable `that )the webbing theV Waistshallf; havesuch. 'elasticitensile v f strength-thatit; may'exert'suiieientloontracf @tile forcei as f tofgriip Vthe body of the, wearerwith enough force Vto' securely. suspendf'the Ji'rn kerbool'ers, .whichfaire' faptfto slip# at thev Waist,

hands of the wearer thfr :rinff his pockets;l

. .l i, .i Y YTheggeiastie'webbing hayingif-thati force,

As commonly.Constructed,theeiastic band y.er webbing Whichnconstitutesj-infwholeorin puckersin [the garmentclothi to :which i attached; .unlessi' that action: iss feontrolilged' 1" l Lprevented gas, byrlny-.inventiom Whi hiIf fsecresuieientgripping strength, in :the

ation when the stitching-'at the Waistfportion;

so fterfe're with the kconti'nuo'us sewingfpenation..

,When @puekerswarefrpresent they."`rnustI be 1 smoothed outbytheoperatorasthegsewing l.

erase@and;.pretentiousqfpmkeengby i f .f l

strength'.V The elastic webbing shown in the drawing is the well-knownstrip of woven fabric which hasrunning through it in longitudinallyextending tubes or sheaths,

`threads or strands of rubber. at spaced intervals crosswise of thestrip.VV j

I achieve the elimination of puclers or folds or creases by attachingthe elastic webbing to the garment cloth in a substantially normalcondition, as it leaves the loom as a finished product, or in astateineiectua'l'to contract said garment cloth at the place of attachment,which results in a construction"` Y j. edge thereorl downward anddiminishingor substantially disappearing before the lower edgeoftheelastic webbing is reached. My invention .consists in whateveris-describedby. orl is included within the terms orscopevo the appendedclaims... 'Y .nthe draw'ingsiY Y Y' x i I Fig'. 1 is an elevationof ltheupper or waist portion oit a pair of trousers showing an embodimentofmy'inventionein which the elastic webbing is appliedonly to the'baclrpart,

parts opened'out; Y

Fig. 2 is a view of the waistband and the garment cloth in a detachedrelation; Y F ig. Sis a side view of the garment from the outside; f Y.j l i Fig..4'is alike view'applied tothe person;

Figj is a viewvshowing, in an intermedif ateV stage, a. methodV ofmaking the waist portion;

' .Figf is a view a modification; 1 l Fig. 7 isa view .in elevation ofthe waist Vportion of a pair of trousers on the-wearer in Whichtheentire waist band is of elastic g;

, Fig. 8 illustrates al pair ofkniclerbockers, in accordance with my"invention, andis shown as folded; i r 'Y Fig 1.

at the back part Yof the waistportion of the ltrousers is stretchedfrom` itsvnorinalfposi-f f jtion, or the position'of such'webbing as is"shown inFigs. 2 and lThe illustration of Fig. 1, is Vdrawn Von Aa scaleV.of lgth tothe inch. -Theupper waist Vportion-"of the` trousers,assli'ownin Figs.'` 2 and 3, measures'in its normal position about twentytive inches, and

as theelasticlis stretched, as` shown in Fig; 1, 675 .it expands totwentynine'inches, so that the and viewed from'the inside, with thefront similar to Fig. 3, showing As illustrated in Fig. 1, the 'elasticwebbing` variation between the minimum and maximum is approximately fourinches. When the front parts of the trousers are brought down from theirinclined position as shown in Fig. l, to approximate a horizontal line,

upper edge of the joined back parts is shown t;

in the drawing as a straight line but may vary therefrom slightly.Strips, 14, at their upper edges lextend higher than the upper edge ofcachot` thel strips, 10, to allow for a seam by whichalining20,isattached thereto,

.andalso to allow strips, 14, to be foldedat their upper edges andextendabove the up-L -per edge oit each of strips, 10. Y

twiiibe seen that the joined strips,f10, as

they extend from seam, 11, and joined at their ends withstrips, 14, iorma waistband 4for the trousers composed of several obliquely ex-v tendingor divergent portions, as shown in l Fig-2. :By comparing the Obliquityor upwarddivergence of the lower edge 'of this waistbandwitli the formofthe upper edge oicloth A12, to which the'waistband is after- 'wardsattached,itwill be Vseen that they differ in degree of Obliquity ordivergence. W'hen the waistband is attached to the upper edgeo-tlietrousers cloth, 12, the Obliquity of the waistband is reduced bybeing made to meet the form of the `upper edge of the trousers cloth,12, andwheiithe job is done, the obliquity ostrips10, of the waistband,which originally. extendedupward is reduced to an approximate horizontalline as that of the upper edge ofthe back parts of the trousers 12, andthe obliquity oit strips 14, ismade to coni'orin tothe Obliquity oftheupper edge of n theiront'parts of the trouserscloth, v12. The diierenceoi obliquityfor form of the lower edge-'ot the waistband and the upperedge ofi-the' cloth to whichit is attached, as explained above, resultsin the upward and inward inclination ofthe j oined'strips 10 of the Y ,Y.n -V waistband Vfrom a point in proximity to the Fig. S)y is asectional -view on line 9 9 of place where-:they'are joined Yand thusthe circumferential extento'f the waist portion of f the trousers isless'attli'e upper edge than at Dfi lili) renders this operationpossible'. The edge of the strip second to be sewed on is then stitchedalong the upper edge ofthe trousers cloth, 12. This results in thetwosections or strips, 10, being on the outer side of-the waist portionofthe trousers on the completion of the sewing operation. Thereafter,such strips are turned through 180 so that they extend in properposition upward as a waistband forming extension of the trousers. It isdesired that seam 11, of strips, V10,

register with the back seam, 18, ofthetrousers, to'facilitate thefolding operation at that point. To assure this, with the least troubleto the operator, I make the combined length of the two strips, 10,shorterat their longer-edge, than the upper edge vof `the.trouserscloth, 12. Thus, in order to make theseams register, theustripis stretched tof pull seam, 11, over in linewith seam, 18. The stretchoccursin the portion of the elastic .covered by the triangles, V16. Thebases, 17,

i lof the triangles 16,L at the adjacent portions of thetrouserscloth,12, prevent contraction .of said cloth, which might otherwise result Vatthat point'frorn, the tensionorpull of the stretched-edge ofstrips,10."-Theresult or effect in this caseis, that the bases, 17,ofthe triangles,16, inasmuch as they need notbe lstretched with the edgeof strips, 10, and cannot contract, provide resistance -to thecontractile forceof the stretched portions of the elastic strips, 10,and therefore the contiguous portion ofthe cloth, 12, will not bepuckered. Vithout the `provision for alining Y seam, V11,

v,withthe center sea-m, 18, it may Voccur lthat the strip', be sewed,with seam 11, beyond the center seam, 18,? whichmay begcausedvby theaction-,of the presser footof the-sewing ma- .chine pushingthe Vstripfrom `under it.. forward, and the 'operatorwould have to do the workover to aline,the'twoseams.A l

The lining, 19, is stitched or sewed'inplace, so that it covers thevtriangle bases, 17,'and the bottom edges of strips, 10, (seeFig. 5)

v by placing the lining upon the strips, 10,;with

j show the positions ,of-theelastic lwebbings the personofthe wearer..i,As shown vinF-igs. f .3 .ancl'8, `the elastic webbingextends. atl anVits upper edge rregistering with the Aupper Yedge of theV trouserscloth, 12, andA securing' the same by a line of stitching. Y The liningis then turnedover substantially 3609to place it 'on the inner sideofthe trousers, so it Yhangs downward fronitheupperedgethereof.; Thenthe strips, `10, are turnedlSOO, as'1before'exY plained, and thetrousers clothiitself remain'- ing in effectat no degrees,'o'r-ze`ro.j`-V l VReference'.toFigs. 3,4, 6,4? and v8, will beforeand after thetrousers are placed upon angle upward and rearward.V As shown in Figs.4, 6l and?, asy a result of stretching ness properly fallsover the hips.

The triangles, 16, may also be provided at the side seam, 15. If theelastic webbing reaches to the side Vseam of the waist portion, one suchtriangle onY each side of the garmentV on the side of the seam towardsthe back part, lwould be provided, and if elastic strips are attached tothe front of the garment as Well as to the back, as shown in Fig. 7,such triangles oneach side of each seam wouldl be present, and willserve the purpose of resisting the tendency of the wearers shirt to drawup and over the waistband, as do the triangles at the back seam, asbefore explained.

I may Vaccomplish the object of my invention by graduating the tensionofthe rubber threads which run longitudinally through v bottom, beingprogressivelylof less tension,

so that the stretch V in applying the waist'portion of the trousers tothe person of the' wearer 'isgreatest lat the upper edge and the webbingto lit the body, it is made to approximate a horizontal .position andthe fulgradually diminishes wholly or to an unob-Y Avjectio'nable.degreebefore'the4 pointof connection with the nonelastic cloth of the garmentis reached. In such a case, the fabric portion of the elastic "webbingy'might if stretched'be of uniform width from end to end, and-when theVrubber threads contract such fabricV will be more or less puckered fromthe top downward. And in the finished garment Vthe actual circumferencewould be that -of the puckered stateand not the length ofthe stretchedoutrfabric. Invthis case, the shortening and lessenin'g of circumferenceof the waist portion'of'the trousers is ef fected by successives'horteningfof rubber 'Y threads in the elastic Vwebbing. from bottom totop,v or otherwise graduating the tension of such threads from 'bottomto top, and leaving the cloth fabric of the strip without alteration of'its length from bottom to top.- The actual effect, however, is Vtoenable stretch to conform to the body to ftake place in those partsofthe band away from Ythe bottom edge,fvand to have the latter atv alltimes in a normally relaxed state. Such elastic webbingmay befabricated, or woven `with severalthreads Lof rubber granulatedlongitudinal tension. The end Vportions-of such webbing, strip divergeor bend away from each other'froin midlength.

VThe knickerbockers shown infFig'. 8y embody. or comprise featuresdescribedY before.l

They comprise a waistband construction sini- `ilartothat showniinlligs.-1 to 1l. 'TliewaistbandV isY foldedl along the seams, 11 and 15,

which extend upward 4and* inward-and are coincident with theback seam,18, and Vside seams, 13, respectively, Whichzare; the folding lines ofthe knickerbockers. i The circum- 'erential'extent vof the upper part ofthe waist portion, as shown intliis ligure, is less than thecircumferentialextent of the lower A part thereof, and it may be seenthat no puckersor wrinkles are` present lthereat, and a neat, flat stateof the garment is secured.V

y Ifdesired, merely for appearance sake, a beltmay be worn with thetrousers and the rcludes elastic; webbing having a ribbed sur.'-

ffaee, thefendportions of said webbing being foldedovery at anv vangleover saidV webbin Y theloweriedge of the elastic webbingan "folded overportions being stitchedk to the adjacent non-stretchable material.

In testimony whereof I hereunto, affix signature. Y, c

' customary loops or straps would be provided in this case. But, ofcourse, the belt does notv serve any purpose as a means for holding thegarment snugly to the body, because that is done entirely by the.gripping action of the i elastic webbing. v However, shouldv the webbinglose its elasticity or Wear out, then the presence of the loops orstraps will.l serve for holding the garment by the belt.

WhatI claim'is: Y 1. A garment of substantially nonstretch-- ablematerial having a waistband portion that is stretchable andsel-contractible, said waistband portion having anj edge attached tosaid non-stretchable material in a substantially non-stretched conditionand havingy contractile Vforce away from the place of attachmentsuiiiciently far to prevent puckering of said nonstretchable material atthe place of attachment.

2. A garment of substantially non-stretchable material having aVwaistband portion K that is stretchable Aand self-contractible, said;

vwaistfprtion that comprises elastic Vwebbing and a member ldependingtherefrom of substantially non-,stretchable material, which inl i cludesattaching the lower edge of said webl. hing to said non-stretchablematerial in a4, s"

substantially non-stretched condition, ineffectual to pucker the latterat the place `of at-V tachment, and providing in the webbing contractileforce away Jfrom the place o-attach- `ment sufliciently far to preventV.puckerin'g rsaid non-stretchable material `,at-.the place'oattachment.

4. A garment cludes providing elasticwebbing having end yportions thatdiverge upwardly from a point intermediate said end portions, joiningthe lowerr edge of said vwebbing in a substantially non-stretchedcondition tothe Vwaist portion v v*making method which in- K Yof thegarment, and causing said webbing to K Y extend upwardly and inwardly.

v 5.l A garment of substantially non-stretch'-y able material havingawaist portion that in- A

